"True beauty comes from respect for tradition and admiration for classicism," Mr. Givenchy said.
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Text | Yilin
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Givenchy founder Hubert de Givenchy died in his sleep on March 10 at the age of 91.
The moment I heard the news, I couldn't help sighing, "The era of the master craftsman has come to an end."
With the passing of Christian Dior, Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Cristobal Balenciaga, one after another, the masters who once defined the golden age of haute couture, the brand fell into the curse of capital operation, and the noble light was extinguished.
In this era of "whoever wins the diaosi wins the world", subculture pioneers put trendy brands on the T stage, the pursuit of material desires overwhelms the advocacy of taste, deconstructing or even re-enacting classics is easier than finding inspiration to carve details. ".
The brand no longer maintains "ingenuity" and a sense of luxury. Abandoning the original brand, rushing on the high-speed road to chase sales and explosions, like Alto, who flew too low in the mouth of Mr. Feng Gong, "timeless" has become the biggest joke.
Here they are clamoring to dress "comfortably" and "free", and wantonly pretending to be "FUGLY" (Fashion-ugly), but in fact it is just for the uncontrollable mouth, the uncontrollable weight, and the expansion to the wayward. a reason.
Here they claim to "be yourself", and there they follow the hashtags on social networks to make calls.
It seems that with these tags, I am also Hypebeast and Fuccboi. In fact, I am stuck in the fog of self-positioning that cannot be found by GPS, and I still can't see who I am after looking in the mirror hundreds of thousands of times.
While we are shouting "be yourself", who really becomes "you"?
Some people sigh, Hubert de Givenchy passed away, and with it the era of "elegance" that he once defined.
Some people feel that it was not until Givenchy passed away that they realized that they had misunderstood the brand that has been popping up one after another, and the master of the era who has been "elegant" all his life.
Although we all know that Mr. Givenchy and Christian Dior both have French aristocratic blood, showing artistic talent since childhood;
He and Christian Dior were brothers and sisters, and they admired and inspired each other with Cristobal Balenciaga, the founder of Balenciaga.
There are also well-known legends created between him and Audrey Hepburn for forty years.
Today, Yilin wants to take everyone into that era, a little closer, to see the golden age that belongs to Givenchy and the "gods".
Phantom Thread, literally translated as the ghost between the pins. Legend has it that it was a term from Victorian East London weavers. They do long and repetitive manual labor every day. After get off work, they will unconsciously vibrate and clasp their fingers, as if they are sewing "ghost threads".
The 90th Academy Award-winning film for Best Costume Design, Phantom Thread, recreates the story of the popular haute couture house in the 1950s.
The actor ReynoldsWoodcock, played by Daniel Day Lewis, looks like Mr. Givenchy, with a sculptural face, elegant demeanor, and meticulous rigor.
The Christian decor of Woodcock Fashion House is reminiscent of Cristobal Balenciaga;
Reynolds' genius, sensitivity, vulnerability, as if Yves Saint Laurent was reborn;
His odd behaviors and demands are reminiscent of Karl Lagerfeld;
The rhythm of the workaholic, and the possessiveness of the design work reflects the shadow of Charles James.
The screen opened, the faint light trembled, the dim light and shadow, the winter night in Yorkshire, the stubbornness of the protagonist, the woman's burning lust, the game of drinking vulture wine with a smile, and the lingering sadomasochism.
Love is an illusion of going back and forth, customization is a love letter between pins, but people no longer understand it.
1. A fashion house is not a tailor's shop, and customers' scrutiny will penetrate every inch of pores
Information in that era was far less developed than it is today. Not everyone who made clothes could run a fashion house, and not every fashion house could open on Avenue Montaigne, where celebrities gathered.
Designers can have a Fashion House named after themselves, and they can also attract guests with the same taste as you, and make them follow you obsessively. In addition to their skilled craftsmanship, they must also let visitors recognize them at first sight. You are the "person who can be entrusted" in the legend, and there is even an unnamed undercurrent in my heart.
Every morning, before opening the door, Reynolds must meticulously organize his image,
Only when your own image can withstand the close inspection and exploration of the guests, can you convince the guests that you will treat every stitch and every inch of stitches with the same elegance and rigor.
If you want to do business with high society people, you have to have the decency to match.
2. Every customization is a love letter, to myself and to the future
In that era of pure handwork, the carriage and horses were too slow, and the handwork was too slow. Every new piece of clothing was a love letter to myself and to the future.
The label is hidden in the corner of the skirt, and its name is written on it. Every needle is full of temptation and throbbing.
A good fashion designer must sew clothes full of emotion and hope.
3. The shortcomings that you are ashamed to talk about are sources of inspiration in the eyes of designers.
The heroine Alma felt that her neck was too thin, her shoulders and crotch were too wide, and she had no chest. I'm ashamed to say it myself, but in Reynolds' eyes, this is the most perfect body in the world.
Under the "packaging" of Reynolds, Alma was successfully upgraded to a goddess.
The influence of clothing, hairstyle, and makeup on a person's overall image is not an exaggeration. In the movie "The Dressmaker", Tilly Dunnage, played by Kate Winslet, successfully made a custom for "Tu Fei Yuan" Trudy The exquisite and embossed dress helped her become a stunning Cinderella, and captured the rich and handsome who had been secretly in love for a long time.
Become the most popular costume designer and change the lives of the girls in the whole town.
The Countess enjoyed the evening gown Reynolds had designed for her, even if she was strangled to the point of breathlessness.
4. Every successful fashion design is created by you and the designer together.
In the eyes of designers, you are not a two-legged clothing display stand that can move, but a thoughtful and soulful partner.
Givenchy's design philosophy is: let all women wear their own style.
Every creation is like dancing with shackles. Before releasing your own design inspiration, you must carefully consider the ideas and requirements of the guests.
After referring to the identity background, wearing occasion, purchase budget, personal preferences, body characteristics, age and other details of the guests, the fashion elements are then injected.
Successful clothing design can reflect the brilliance of your soul.
5. Every glamorous garment is a match made in heaven between people and materials and craftsmanship.
Everyone who customizes knows that "good customization starts with fabrics".
If you choose the wrong fabric, even the best design and production cannot reflect its true value!
When the designer compares the fabric on you, you and he can see that different fabrics have different chemical reactions on you.
Some materials make you look energetic and cheerful, some make you look calm and gentle, and some make you old-fashioned and tired.
Even if you don't know the magic spell in each piece of fabric, you can still find out which one has a better texture through comparison.
Kiton's fabric is very famous, sewing a suit in microfiber fabric that weighs less than 500 grams!
And Kiton's tailor-made suits can also stay undeformed for a long time, even if the suit is often folded, rubbed, and shaken, it can be as crisp as it has just been ironed.
Customization is about "people wear clothes", not "clothes wear people".
Givenchy once said, "The skirt has to follow the woman's body, not the body to follow the shape of the skirt."
In addition to the attention to the fabric, tailor-made naturally requires every point to fit the wearer's body shape. Only by accurately grasping the wearer's body characteristics can the clothing highlight the advantages and avoid the disadvantages.
Successful custom clothing is like your second skin, comfortable without being pretentious, and like your armor, posing for you, not holding you down.
Charvet, founded in 1838, is one of the most expensive shirt brands in the world!
Whether a custom shirt is successful or not, it is necessary to accurately obtain 28 items of data of the customer, and also take the customer's living habits into account in the design of the shirt! For example, the habit of buttoning buttons, whether you like a bow tie or a tie, etc.
"London is to men what Paris is to women." Savile Row, located in London, England, is a holy place for global men's clothing customization, and it is a place that almost every successful person aspires to go!
Wearing a suit handcrafted by Savile's top tailors is a status symbol. The old British bespoke clothing store Anderson & Sheppard is just down this street.
ReynoldsWoodcock's costumes in the play were all custom made by Anderson & Sheppard of Savile Row.
At least 27 measurements of different body parts, at least 50 man-hours of full handcrafting, 1:1 slice cutting.
For every piece of clothing in the movie, designer Mark Bridges personally studied a lot of dress details at the Victoria & Albert Museum, including the works of Balenciaga, Balmain, Victor Stiebel and even the royal designer Norman Hartnel, according to the model's appearance. Body to be tailored.
6. How anxious you are to wait for a new dress, how much you cherish it when you get it
The moment I got the new clothes, it was as if I had found the TA in my dream. Holding down the joy in my heart, I held it in my hand and gently stroked it, for fear that it would disappear in the next moment.
"I feel like my whole life has been waiting for you, until this moment, I found you"
"Then now that you have found me, whatever you do, please be careful."
Can't wait to get dressed and admire your wisdom with your partner.
7. Money is not everything, only taste will be popular
Different from the one-way selection of brands by customers today, in that era, you didn’t have money to be the guest of the fashion house, but only if you had the same taste as the designer would be popular.
If the cloth is conscious, it must be painful. But only through pain can it become clothing.
The "run-in" of cloth and cloth, the communication between cloth and design inspiration, the fit between clothing and wearer, which link is not like the blending of soul and soul.
If the clothes had a soul, I'm afraid they would say "That skirt doesn't belong here" like Alma,
Then, without waiting for Alma and Reynolds to "crack", the dress will break free from Barbara Rose's body and run wild with them.
Although today's high fashion has stepped down from the altar and fell into the mortal world, it has become a "fashion item" that both you and I can have, but after all, we only have one body, and we often wear only a few pieces of clothes in the corner of the wardrobe.
Mr. Givenchy once said that if a woman wants to be stylish, "all you need is a raincoat, two suits, a pair of trousers, and a cashmere sweater."
Life used to be that simple.
I do not deny that social networks and convenient purchasing channels have brought convenience and fun to our lives, but in this era, is it time for us to reflect?
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