(Friends who are interested in the history and costumes in this movie are welcome! Friends who are interested in historical costumes are also welcome! Of course, other friends are also welcome, but the content of this article is relatively boring to the public, and the length is also long. So please read carefully!)
First of all, I would like to declare that I also posted almost the same article on Weibo, so if other friends see a very similar article on Weibo, it is me who wrote it? ~ There is no copyright problem, enthusiastic friends Don't report or something? …
"The Other Boleyn Girl" was designed by British costume designer Sandy Powell.
Her representative works include "Orlando", "Interview with the Vampire", "Cinderella", etc. She herself has been nominated for 10 Oscars for Best Costume Design! And won the best costume design of the 71st Oscar for "Shakespeare in Love", the best costume design of the 77th Oscar for "The Aviator", and the best costume design of the 82nd Oscar for "Young Victoria"! It can be said to be a bright star! The costume design of "The Other Boleyn Girl" by her is a natural addition to the film! Next, I will talk about the costumes in this film, and I will also touch on the differences between the film and real history.
The film begins with the wedding of the Boleyn family's second daughter, Mary Boleyn, while her sister, Anne Boleyn, has yet to be settled.
Let me first talk about it here. Most historians believe that Mary is actually the eldest sister, and Anne is the younger sister. However, there are still historians who insist that Mary is the younger sister. At present, more conclusions are that Mary is the eldest sister. And Mary is not as silly and sweet as the setting of the film. Mary in history is a plump and fair-haired beauty with many romantic affairs. During her 12/15 years (the year of her birth is unknown, so the exact age cannot be given), she became the dowry maid of Mary Tudor, sister of Henry VIII, and traveled to France in 1514 with Anne. She was said to have been a libertine at the French court, and was dismissed and sent back to England in 1519 because of these rumors. Of course these rumors may also be exaggerated, but it is also said that she may be the mistress of the French King François I.
Speaking of the costumes in the film, at the beginning, the two sisters wore similar styles of clothes, and they almost just changed the color, presumably to highlight their "sister flowers" setting. But the style of the two costumes at the wedding is very strange?
Both of the costumes have narrow sleeves and have some strange decorations on the sleeves that look like they are modeled after rips. In addition to the flat chest block and horizontal waistline of the upper body of the skirt, the skirt of the lower body is still correct. As for the two costumes of the two of them, I will sell them first, because it will be better to talk with the costumes that appear later. But first of all, these two costumes are wrong, the Tudor style dress was popular in England at that time? (But it is actually the same style as the French style)
In the case of Jane Seymour's portrait, the traditional British attire has an English hood. The dress has a square neckline, usually bejeweled at the neckline, the chest is flattened and rigid (it is not known how this shape is made), and the sleeves are layered under the exaggerated folded large sleeves. . The waistline is horizontal. The familiar V-shaped waistline appeared with the appearance of the corset, so the waistline before the 1540s was actually horizontal. The portrait of Jane Seymour is wearing a skirt, but the first time the story happened in the 1520s, the skirt was not popular. The skirt will be discussed in detail later. Going back to the two costumes of the wedding above, it can be seen that they are not the same. Not historical, and it makes sense that they were wearing French hoods instead of English hoods. As I mentioned earlier, Mary and Anne were already in France when they were in their teens. They were deeply influenced by the fashion of the French court, and the French hood was one of the representatives, and then Anne Boleyn became a The first pusher of the French hood! So it's okay for them to wear a French hood. In addition, there is currently no French hood in the film and television works. For details, please refer to this Weibo article by Shenmao Da: https://m.weibo.cn/2097767661/4498763093805393
Later, when King Henry VIII visited, Anne went to charm the king to seek favor, but the hunting caused the king to be injured and fell out of favor. The younger sister Mary won the favor of the king for healing, and was sent to the palace with Anne to become the maid of Catherine of Queen Aragon, which was also convenient for the king to call for luck. And Mary's husband acquiesced to this because he could not refuse high-ranking officials. This plot is obviously made up, and it should be to pave the way for the sisters to turn against each other. Historically, Mary did marry William Carey in 1520 after returning to England in 1519, which actually corresponds to the wedding at the beginning of the film. However, Mary was caught by Hengba at her own wedding. Although it is not recorded when she became Hengba's mistress, it is certain that the relationship between the two is quite low-key, and Mary has never enjoyed it. The days of the king's great mistress. And their relationship had ceased before 1526, and it is said that Hyung-pak quickly lost interest in Mary.
In this scene in the film, the costumes of the two sisters can explain the design of the two costumes at the wedding very well. Let's see how many looks of the two of them in this play?
These two sets are still "sisters" outfits, take a look at the following
The common feature of these sets is the narrow sleeves, and the sleeves are decorated with slits. The chest is tied with lacing (by the way, the familiar way of cross lacing only appeared in the 19th century, before it was zigzag). This style obviously does not belong to the British style, but it is not original. This style actually comes from the clothes of women in the German region at that time?
It is very unreasonable to put this style on Mary and Anne. First of all, this kind of style in the German region is actually very strange to other Europeans. Second, the two accept French fashion, and they will not wear it. It looks like a strange German style. Although it is true that the British are affected by the German style, this influence is only to pursue the solemnity of the German style, and does not wear the entire style. I believe that the designer let them wear this style to distinguish them from their identities. Before entering the palace, the two of them were dressed in small clothes, a little family-like and family-like (especially Scarlett's style is very like a peasant woman), after entering the palace It looks very atmospheric (in fact, it should have been worn like this...).
Then the two entered the palace to meet Catherine of Aragon. And you can also see that the dresses of the ladies in the palace are roughly in line with history?
Why do you say it is only roughly in line, because the skirts of the ladies in the film have added skirts! And that's actually not true!
Taking Mary's shape in the picture above as an example, it is obvious that the skirt is worn under the skirt to have such a stiff line. But in fact, there was no pannier in the women's skirts at that time, as can be seen from this sketch of a woman's whole body in 1526?
?The skirt in the picture above hangs naturally, and is not as stiff as the women's skirt in the film (due to the pannier), so it can basically be judged that the British court in the 1520s had not yet fully popularized the pannier. The 15-year-old British drama "Wolf Hall" also tells the story of this period. The costumes in it have no skirt support, which is more historical than the film.
At the same time, there is also a widely circulated saying about the promotion of skirt braces, saying that Catherine of Aragon is the promoter of skirt braces (because she was a Spanish princess before she married into the UK, and Spain was the first country in the world to wear skirt braces. It appeared in portraits in the 1470s. Catherine of Aragon married into England and brought panties to England), but in fact this statement is wrong. From the tapestry recording the wedding of Catherine of Aragon to Prince Arthur?
And on the planks of this wedding?
It can be seen that she is not wearing panniers, and her sister, the madwoman Juana, who married into the Burgundy court, also did not wear panniers?
So the promotion of the pannier is not a few married Spanish princesses, but someone else. And in the 1536 portrait of Jane Seymour, the rigidity of the skirt line on the lower body also indicates that the pannier has been popular for some time.
So the promoter of the pannier is most likely the French fashion-influenced Anne Boleyn, but that remains a mystery. Going back to the film, if it is said that the Bolling sisters are influenced by French style and wear panniers, this may be true. But it is absolutely wrong for the British court to dress like this! The shape in the film should have been in the 1530s, but when the two first entered the palace it was in the 1520s. Although the years were not far apart, they couldn’t just get away with it. It is estimated that the designer used the style with the skirt support to make The overall shape is more atmospheric~
Going back to the Bolin sisters in the film, the Bolin sisters were still dressed in German style at the beginning of the palace.
But after Mary was favored, she began to dress like the ladies in the palace.
But Annie is still a German style. The comparison between the two in the picture below is very obvious~
Then Anne secretly married Henry Percy, son of the Earl of Northumberland, and was reported by Mary. After that, she was sent to the French court to study. Her wedding to Henry Percy also ended without a hitch. The above plot is naturally made up, and historically, Anne and Henry Percy are more like lovers, they are in love, and the relationship between the two also happened after Anne returned to England from France. The two did not marry in secret. It was Henry Percy's father, the Earl of Northumberland, who thought that Boleyn's family was too low, and refused to let his son be engaged to Anne. The poor two were beaten by a stick...
Back in the film, Anne returned to China because Mary was pregnant and couldn't have sex, and Hung Pal gradually lost interest in Mary. In order to maintain the status of the Boleyn family, Anne needed to return to England to attract the king's attention, and let him remember the Boleyn family and Mary. . After returning from France, Anne finally dressed up as the ladies in the palace, and her return from France was even more glorious! You can see her gorgeousness from the costumes~
No wonder Hengba fell for it. The plot after that is more similar to history, but the plot of Anne's revenge on Mary after returning to China and making Mary fall out of favor after giving birth to a child is naturally made up. The plot that Anne was unwilling to be Hengba's mistress and insisted that she would only devote herself to being a true wife is true. The later divorce of Hengba and Catherine of Aragon, the religious reform, and Anne becoming queen are all true.
But I really can't understand the dress of Annie's back.
This is a bright blue dress. The square collar and chest block with jewels look more British, but the sleeves are three split puff sleeves! From here, you can see that this piece has German elements in it, and it turns out that this is still a high waistline design! It instantly made me think that this was a high-waisted element of Italian clothing at the time?
Of course, the high waist was also because Annie was 4 months pregnant at the time. But what I am more dissatisfied with is that this is obviously the coronation ceremony of the Queen of England! But she wore a mixed style skirt of British style + German style + (probably Italian style)! And this kind of skirt is impossible to appear at that time! Although it is really great visually, the first one is not in line with history, and the second British queen's coronation dress is mixed with the styles of other countries. This is like the embroidered irises on the Zhai clothes of the ancient Chinese queens...
The plot behind the film is also more in line with historical facts. Anne did not give birth to the son that everyone expected, but gave birth to a daughter Elizabeth (the future Elizabeth I). After several miscarriages, Hyung-pal lost interest in him and was with Jane Seymour. Mary and William Stafford married and lived outside the palace. However, the reason for Mary's departure from the court is not as shown in the film. Mary is used to seeing the warmth and warmth of the court, and cannot accept Anne's decision to have sex with her brother George to re-pregnancy (not in the film, and probably not in history). ), so left the court and Stafford lived out of the palace. In fact, Mary secretly married William Stafford who had no status, and their union may have been out of love, but it was considered a disgrace to the family and was banished from the court.
In the palace, Hengba, who was exhausted by Annie's patience, got the whistleblower from Cromwell and others, and put Annie on the trumped-up charges of adultery and treason. Annie attended the trial. Interestingly, Anne wore an English hood to the court?
It is estimated that it is to maintain the dignity of the Queen of England.
The trial is not about being found guilty, and Annie faces the death penalty. At this time, the film arranged a scene where Mary went to the court to plead with Hyung-pak, but this scene was obviously made up. History has been difficult to trace Mary's life trajectory from 1534 to 1536, only that she did not visit her mother during this period, nor did she visit Anne when she was imprisoned in the Tower of London. Her brother, George Boleyn, was charged with adultery and executed, and she did not try to visit. It is estimated that he is wise to protect himself from being implicated. In the film, Mary stayed with Anne until she was executed.
Bottom line: The film's costumes are so visually appealing through color and fabric that it's easy to ignore its mistakes. And it is also a miracle that such a Tudor costume feast can be created without much funding! However, the women's clothing added a lot of German style, which caused some loss of British style. Men's clothing is more sophisticated, but there is nothing special to say. Let's end with the costumes~
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