A trip a few years ago brought me into surfing.
When I stood up countless times and fell hard on the water, when I stood up on the board for the first time and waved my hands excitedly. I understand that this chance encounter may be a lifelong love.
After the trip, the love still hasn't diminished, but it can only be spent by searching for information on the Internet and watching videos.
I was lucky enough to come across this movie - "Surfing Hero"
for love, for love
The film shows the love of the sea and the love of surfing. It also shows the love between parents and children, the love between lovers, the love between brothers, the love between teachers and students.
Jay challenged the limit at the age of sixteen. He kept persevering and training. He faced his fears, looked directly at his fears, and finally conquered himself.
In the film, when facing the rolling waves, Kim asked Jay nervously if you really want to surf, and Jay firmly said I was sure. At this moment, Jay's eyes were full of confidence.
Maybe it's Heaven's jealousy, maybe it's Jay who challenges the authority of nature.
At the age of 22, he died in the sea he loved so much.
He may be unfortunate to die young at the age of 22, he may be lucky, Jay gave all his passion and love, challenged the limits of human beings, and died of his own love.
People live only one lifetime, please follow your heart, give all your passion and love, face your fears bravely, challenge, persevere, and overcome.
Finally, may you also find something worth loving all your life
——Yuanjiu
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