found on the Internet, more content in THE CLIMB will help to understand the real situation of the 96 Mountain Difficulties:
3. The debate between three people in
early August 1996 , The famous American outdoor magazine "outside" published the article "Into Thin Air" (the book was not published until the end of the year), which was the first official description of the mountain disaster in the public media. As a participant, Colekauer's record of details, chronological order, and logical inference can be described as quite an excellent reporter's talent, not to mention that he is also an excellent technical climber, so the content of the article is at least in mountaineering. It caused a huge sensation in the world and American society, and the sales of the professional "outside" magazine soared and doubled in the current period.
In the attempt to comprehensively discuss the reasons for the mountain disaster in the article, some facts listed by the author are quite attractive to readers, that is, the doubts about the two guides of the madness mountain, the distance between Anatoli Boukreev and the customers before and after reaching the summit. far, anaerobic climbing, and empty body climbing, expressing objections to Jiang Bu's poor condition, using short ropes to pull Pittman, and being suspected of being lazy.
The two guides quickly responded:
Jiang Bu said in Kathmandu, "I've been in Seattle all summer, serving the Scott Memorial Institute." Jon didn't meet with me until after his article was written. I was questioned by him for choosing to climb without oxygen, and I had reached the summit three times without oxygen before this (not two times as he said), and in 1995, I took the rope from the South Peak to the top of the peak without oxygen... Scott didn't order me, and Sandy Pittman didn't beg me. I just want to make sure that every member of our team has a chance to get to the top, which is my goal and the goal of our team. As for the "lazy" comment, I hope you know that this time I paid a total of 2,000 US dollars. I worked very hard throughout the process, and the whole team recognized it. I didn't mention saving Pittman in the text. I was at 8820. I carried oxygen up to her at Mi's place, and I also carried 30 kilograms of things from C3 to C4 the day before the summit. I have never asked for extra pay for these unconventional work. Money doesn't matter to me...I have these responses to being called like showing off. I used my ice axe to secure a 15-meter rope at the dangerous point under the summit to ensure the safe descent of the team members. I was there waiting for Scott, he came down late and we started down. When we got down to the end of the axe and Hall and Hansen came up, I set up Scott and waited for them to get to the top in the storm and cold before descending, I couldn't remove the rope, I wanted to keep them safe. After they got down to this position, I hurried Ruscott and continued down, and in the snowstorm I dragged Ruscott from the top of the South Peak until he couldn't move at all, at which point I waited for Scott and decided to save him or simply die together. Later, he threatened me that if I didn't go down by myself, he would jump off the cliff. In fact, I was the one who left Scott and Makalu Gao last, not the three Sherpas in the article...
and Anatoly explained that he had been summiting 8000 without oxygen for years Mi, the reason why he went up and down the mountain in the morning was to send oxygen to the customers from C4, and to help these customers...
At that time, Rob Hall and Scott Fischer sympathized with each other, but they were also competitors in the small field of Mount Everest commercial mountaineering, especially for the American market. It cannot be ruled out that in this mountain disaster, the success rate of clients climbing to the top will interfere with their psychology. Around May 10, Hall's team, including himself, lost four people; while Scott's team lost two people, and his two surviving senior guides, Jiangbu and Anatolie, suffered more or less. Question: As a professional guide, you should take oxygen to preserve your physical strength, and you should not be too far away from customers.
The saddened Jiangbu and Anatolie received the calm and almost severe rebuke from Colekauer, and at the same time responded with their own opinions.
And the shadow of death finally balanced the death toll of the two teams. Bad luck not only continued to happen to Jiang Bu, but also to Anatolie.
"I went for Scott." Anatoly climbed Lhotse alone on May 17th, all of which were to fulfill Scott's last wish to complete the world's peaks above 8,000 meters, in his life In the last year or so, he continued to climb Cho Oyu, Shishapangma and Annapurna without stopping and frantically. At the end of April 1997, he cooperated with the Indonesian mountaineering team and once again came to Everest, this time he visited his friend and captain Scott. In the South Col, he found Nambi's body and buried it in a cairn to prevent it from being eaten by birds. There are still quite a lot of crows at the high altitude of Everest. , after which he informed Namby's father and husband. Regarding Nambi's death, Anatoly's book "The Climb" sadly stated that Nambi only weighed more than 80 kilograms. At that time, she should be dragged back to the camp. It is always better to die among the crowd and teammates. What a desolate thing it was for her to die alone in the snowy wilderness of the South Col!
And Anatoly's own luck is getting worse and worse. It seems that the spell of the blizzard in 1996 has not been lifted. In the winter of 1996, he was blinded by a car accident in his hometown in Kazakhstan. In December 1997, he Disappeared in the avalanche of Annapurna, while his Italian partner simoni moro has lived to this day, active in the foreground of the high-altitude and ultra-limited Alps.
11 8000 meters, 18 8000 meters peak records, 11 anaerobic. It was the controversy after the mountain disaster in 1996 that made Anatolie famous, not these dazzling achievements in the mountaineering world. From the perspective of pure personal technical experience rather than a guide, he and Jiang Bu were the same people at that time. The two strongest men on the mountain; Anatoly was already the best 8,000-meter individual player in that era based on the results at that time.
After his death, friends established the Anatoly Foundation to nurture a younger generation of climbers who would support his hometown. He said: "The mountain is the church: solemn and pure, it is the dwelling place of my faith. I go to the mountain as people go to worship the gods..."
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