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who stole our madness and passion
Lelah 2022-02-07 15:01:03
Surfing is indeed an exciting sport. The most memorable thing about this movie should be the four elements of surfing that Frosty said: physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual. Fundamentally, a healthy body, a mature mind, not being a slave to emotions, and having an independent spirit. An excellent person should have strong self-management ability, not be bound by the trivialities of life. To become an extraordinary person, in addition to perseverance, he must have extraordinary courage and courage. Having said that, I respect those who use their lives to challenge the limit, but I will not imitate their actions. After all, there are still family members who will worry about their hearts. If you say it nicely, it is called responsibility, but if it is not good, it is called ties. Maybe the misfortune of the family makes Jay eager I can understand that I can break through and prove myself. It may also be that I have not yet encountered something that makes me willing to give my life. It can only be said that we all live too realistically, with too many concerns, so realistic that we forget what dreams are. , "Have the most simple life and the most distant dream, even if the weather is cold tomorrow, the road is long and the horse is dead"
Extended Reading
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Sonny: Paddle, paddle, paddle, little grom.
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[first lines]
Frosty Hesson: We all come from the sea, but we are not all of the sea. Those of us who are, we children of the tides, must return to it again and again...