Foreword: I saw this reality show launched on Netflix, and I opened it and watched it. I rarely watch fashion news or reality shows, so it may be difficult to give an objective assessment -- because I'm not sure how this one should be rated in the same genre.
For me, it was a good introduction to fashion. Perhaps many people of my generation have such a vague feeling that people should live a simple life no less than food and clothing. Especially after I went to a liberal arts college on the mountain to read Plato, I had a faint contempt for the material world. I could not buy a new dress and shoes for several years, and I grew green onions at home to save money. and basil leaves.
I mentioned it in the diary before, I don’t know why, but I met several brothers last year who either directly or indirectly advised me to pay more attention to shopping. One or two is fine, three or four, and they are all male. By the way, the female friends I know are more similar to me on this issue. I don't know why a higher level of education makes men more invested in appearance, while women are less invested - it may be that education makes people reflect on gender stereotypes and make them more courageous to choose their own way of life.
Before Christmas, I accompanied people to several luxury stores and made up some brand names. Although I still don’t understand why everyone pursues the style of “little white shoes” and “little dirty shoes”, my attitude towards fashion has softened a lot, and it may not have changed. Compared with buying brands, I still I prefer to go shopping in small stores to find things I like - but I began to reflect on how I should expand my cognitive circle, instead of just labeling the purchase of a brand as a "representation of social class". I love the variety of colors and patterns, as well as good cuts and trim. Now is the time to devote more energy to all kinds of interests and to find your anchor in the physical world in more detail.
While watching this reality show, I have been paying attention to two points: one is the relationship between the players within each group, and the relationship between them and the judges. In the early days, I probably thought more about identity and culture-related issues. The second is what is the next in fashion fancy element.
1. Red Carpet
I didn't watch this episode too seriously, I just remember that the dress by Charles (lined in peach) was very nice and surprised me. I started watching their piles of work dawdling and worrying for a while. Angel and Minju's designs are also great.
2. Print & Pattern
This episode wasn't too serious to watch either. I really like print & pattern, but the design here doesn't quite fit my interests. What struck me the most was that Angel told a cultural story related to southern marriage customs to explain their design. Guest judge Gurung apparently changed his opinion on the dress after meeting the pair and hearing the story.
3. Suits
Since this episode, I have really been fanned by the St. Martin duo, and they have come up with an orderly work by everyone. They also knew they could come up with more fluffy and eye-catching pieces on the runway, but they stuck to their style because both of them knew that a good suit should be done this way.
I also love the reconstructed suit between "Paris and Tokyo" - it shows a lot of control over the structure. With the geometric beauty and crisp wool of a kimono, it is serious yet feminine.
The contemporary Elvis suits designed by Scottish single moms and military lads are a bit shoddy—not even the lining is sewn, and the slouchy hem is not flowy, but shapeless. And they really aren't a good team, so I felt very sad watching them quarrel, even if they were eliminated.
4. Streetwear
In this episode, Kiki and Farai are saved by Kerby Jean-Raymond. Apparently it was because Kerby reversed the decision to eliminate them at the cost of an angry stance, allowing them to survive another episode.
Every such moment has some sense of identity politics: for example, in the second episode Prabel Gurung was not so optimistic about Angel and Minju's designs at first, but after meeting them (Asian) and hearing stories about Shenzhen and Korean patterns , is greatly appreciated. Philip Kim also favored Minju, encouraging that such a design deserves to go out into the world. In contrast, Kerby seems to have a Minority solidarity to Kiki and Farai: supporting that they should bring a different perspective to the fashion world. What I appreciate more about minju and angel is that they don't add too much Asian elements, the cutting skills are also great, and they can look at the work from different angles; while Kiki and Farai emphasize the culture of minorities in each episode And the angle of view, the cropping technique is not good, the understanding of the structure is problematic, and every time they are criticized they will say that but they do not think this is a disadvantage. Repeated this twice, one can't help but feel that some are not making progress. Surprisingly, Farai, who was an early designer of Guru, didn't stand out in this episode either.
5. Lingerie
I also liked Ashton's design the most in episode 5 - BDSM+ is colorful, fun and original.
Minju and Angel's design concept is very good, but as the judges commented - not sexy enough, and did not reflect the model's figure. This is probably why the host asked them about their relationship and if they had a boyfriend: because their design style is very consistent cute, brisk, but sexless. But this kind of design is definitely not to be eliminated. I am afraid that for the purpose of the show, I need to find a backer for Kiki and Farai, so I put Minju Angel on the elimination table.
The design of Kiki and Farai is just as bad as ever, with serious construction issues - something that pops up in every episode. But as always, they defended their designs. I can understand their insistence on the concept, but I do worry that they still lack certain technical training. This repeated defense is really worrying and has some suspicion of stubbornness.
The episode also gave me a new appreciation for modeling. The show team selected female plus-size models, which I think is great. First, because next in fashion cannot deny that being more inclusive and more diverse is the only way for fashion, beauty should not make most people feel ashamed (or should it be?). The second is because plus-size models are a challenge for designers, but also a way to open up new ideas. I can see that some designers are obviously having a hard time with this - some of them are trying to cover it up/swamp the model (like Carli getting mad and saying I'm pretty big, why would I want to cover her figure) ; Some designers use this to discuss gender fluidity - but in my opinion, this approach is shifting the focus, and it seems to emphasize that the traditional sense of female beauty is petite and submissive, which can be reflected by a large female model. More of a masculinity. In a word, most designers still put more fabrics on women.
In this choice, I am more aware of the expressive power of the model. Because it's a man and a woman walking the stage, and the female model is much bigger than the male model, so the sense of connection between them becomes very interesting. A group of models chose to look at each other at the front of the runway, which well showed the tension that Lingerie should have. At that time, I was thinking of doing this business, and it was not easy. To act with a stranger in just a few minutes, in order to reflect not myself, but the beauty of clothes.
Vocabulary Award: Camisole, humble slip
6.Rock and Roll
The theme of this episode is also relatively new to me. Of course, I can feel the faint excitement of all the British people - it was only after I went to the UK that I found out that rock and roll is such an important part of British culture. The streets are full of men and women wearing short leather jackets, and the door of the nightclub is also full of girls wearing high-heeled leather boots, fishnet stockings, short skirts and smoky makeup - it's really good-looking.
Since I'm not very familiar with the subject, I can't really comment on how well everyone designed it. It should be said that this field is Ashton's strong point, after all, they all design costumes for musicians. But their design didn't impress me too much. They used a lot of grids to pay homage to the singer, but it looked too familiar.
The group that was eliminated was also on the verge of elimination before. Inexplicably their designs have always been antiquated - arguably they shouldn't be. The girl is a young man who grew up in London, and the man is gay from Mexico. Both of them are not very old, but the clothes they design are very mumsy. In this episode, what they designed is to wear tights under the coat, which is really fascinating.
Minju and Angel's designs don't reflect the spirit of rock and roll, but the host has already smiled lightly. I think if they have a theme of "cute/kawaii", it is estimated that many design giants will have to roll over.
I really like Carli and Daniel's clothes, especially the other leather tickets on the menswear, which are nicely drawn in motion when the model turns around.
Vocabulary Awards: Grommet, studs
Rock genre: Punk; grunge; glam
7. Active Wear
Daniel's rowing suits are impeccable and do remind me of five in the morning in England. Too bad I didn't go boating.
What makes me a little sad is Carli's collapse and elimination, but there's really no way - after taking her and Daniel apart, it's clear that they both have similar styles and skills, while Daniel is younger and more innovative.
In this episode, it can be seen that Minju's design type actually has some limitations. Her familiar style is feminine, cute, breezy and dreamy. Active wear isn't something she's good at. She made a superman-style gym suit in very clear colors, which was quite impressive.
The Italian designer's hands-on ability may be similar to mine... He is very suitable for charles.
Vocabulary Awards:
- Wrestling singlet
- Neoprene fabric
- ripstop shorts
- hakama pants
8.Military
This episode can also see Minju's inadequacies. Her understanding of military is not too deep. She and Angel both look for inspiration from film and television works. But even so, both of them still came up with good works. It may really be to look at different design works, just like reading different attitudes and experiences in life.
Again, Daniel has gotten us to know him better from this episode. His tribute to medics is very delicate, but unfortunately he did not keep it because of the inconsistent color tone. In fact, if he changed to a dark blue, it should be more suitable, but I am afraid that it is not scrub.
9. Denim
There are some who worry that Daniel will be eliminated because the concept (environmental protection) is higher than the execution ability, but fortunately, the arc beauty of the skirt is also very good, and the stitching skills are good. I didn't expect him to be so young. Maybe being in the same group with carli made me think he should be in his thirties.
10. Finale
At the last minute, I didn't feel much when I came out with a collection. In fact, the outcome is already clear.
View more about Next in Fashion reviews
