Maybe, you don’t know his name yet, but you must have seen or wore the clothes he designed.
This person is known as the "godfather of fashion", "ghost design genius", "one of the designers who have the greatest influence on women's clothing", "the little fat man in fashion"...
He is Alexander McQueen .
Lee Alexander McQueen
He designed classic skull scarves and so on
49 years ago, in 1969, McQueen was born in a middle-class family in London, England. His father was a taxi driver. There were 6 children in the family. McQueen was the youngest one.
Since childhood, McQueen’s father had hoped that he could become a mechanic, but McQueen, who loves painting, chose another path, a path exclusive to him.
In order to recall the legendary life of McQueen, the documentary "Alexander McQueen: A Floating Life Like a Show" was released in China in 2018.
This documentary has re-distilled several stages of McQueen's life in the past few videos, edited a main line, and clearly recorded McQueen's process from being green to emerging to blooming and passing away.
"Alexander McQueen: A Floating Life as a Show" poster
Director: Ian Bonholt/Pete Edgar
For a character documentary, choosing the right person to record is half the battle.
And McQueen is the right person.
The audience who watched this documentary said: " I have never felt such a vivid person. He is like my brother, my mentor, and more like my friend. "
The audience who watched the documentary at the EU Film Festival received warm applause. They were attracted by McQueen and cheered for McQueen.
This documentary has both laughs and tears, restoring a relatively complete McQueen——
"There is beauty in anger, and anger is passion for me"
—— A designer who wants to protect women with fashion
McQueen’s childhood was full of darkness. He witnessed his brother-in-law’s domestic violence and his sister, and he was sexually assaulted by his brother-in-law. His growth was spent in tolerance and despair.
McQueen in childhood
The idea of protecting women sprouted in his heart.
These experiences laid the foundation for the formation of McQueen's personal style.
On weekdays, McQueen, who likes to paint, often draws what he thought of in his head. This talent was discovered by his sister.
The encouragement of his sister made McQueen firm his conviction.
Screenshots from the film "Alexander McQueen: A Floating Life as a Show"
In addition to painting, McQueen will also tailor-made skirts for her sisters. Although these skirts have a "difficult" feeling to wear, everyone around them praised the dress for its beauty. My sisters are also willing to wear McQueen's designs. skirt.
The 16-year-old McQueen left school and went to the Savile Row (Savile Row) tailor clothing store, followed by Anderson and Shepard as an apprentice. After a period of training, he came to Tateno Koji's studio.
ROMEO GIGLI brand designer
McQueen apprentice with him
In the following period of time, McQueen went to Milan, Italy and other places, but because he really didn't like the environment of Milan, he returned to London.
In 1992, McQueen entered the famous design school Central Saint Martins College to study "Fashion Design". It was also during this study career that McQueen met a woman who had a profound influence on him- Isabella Bou Luo .
Isabella Brow
Known as the "Queen of Hats"
Isabella Brow was born a nobleman and was the editor-in-chief of the British edition of "VOGUE" at the time. She discovered this rare talent on the McQueen graduation design show and bought all the works of the show at a high price.
Isabella Blow and McQueen
Since then, the two will remain inseparable, and McQueen will always leave a room in Burrow's home. They often meet together to share their insights on fashion.
As McQueen's Bole, Blow also suggested that McQueen change the original name "Lee" to "Alexander".
Thus, Alexander McQueen was born . McQueen was very clear: He wanted to create his own personal brand, so he asked someone to design the Logo, which is what everyone sees now.
DOCO Jun shot at "Alexander McQueen Sanlitun Store"
This is the brand’s first store in China
McQueen, who was deeply appreciated by Burrow, ushered in the first spring of his career. He held a solo show in 1995, but it was a cheap show. All the raw materials were McQueen’s children from his frequent visits. The partners who came to help set up the exhibition were all paid out of their own pockets if they arrived at the store.
Stylist at the McQueen Show
It was McQueen’s neighbor who was called temporarily but became a lasting partner
McQueen said: " Whether it is scolding or applause, I want the world to see me. "
He wants to declare the fashion world through this show, he is here (actually, McQueen had his own work long before this show, we will select 4 of the most famous solo shows today)——
"Romantic in Realism"
1995 "Highland Rape"
(Highland Rape Series):
Screenshots from the film "Alexander McQueen: A Floating Life as a Show"
The theme of this show is called "Highland Rape", and the model's dress is more revealing. This series of clothes is specially designed by McQueen for the " female " theme.
Although some people said it was a great insult and disrespect for women after reading it, McQueen believed that he showed the appearance of women when they were bullied through clothing. This is what he wanted to express .
Screenshots from the film "Alexander McQueen: A Floating Life as a Show"
This show not only made the audience "eye-opening", the models walked the show with emotion, and it also started the label of McQueen.
Since then, McQueen's solo shows have been completed on highly emotional themes.
McQueen thinks: " I want people who come to watch the costume show to feel particularly shocked or surprised or particularly nonsense. Don't let everyone be expressionless after watching, as if they have completed a task. Such a show is meaningless. "
" Bumsters" (Bumsters) jeans " was also launched in this show. McQueen's design never has a border, as long as he feels it is possible, he can make it.
These trousers are lower than any secularly acceptable level at that time, and the "groove" is clearly visible, which shocked the entire fashion industry! Bold and sexy makes many people crazy.
After the fashion show, McQueen’s goal was achieved. He did attract the attention of the fashion industry. The major media and magazines began to pay attention to this somewhat unassuming, hot, and opinionated fashion designer. The industry said he was engaged in clothing. Career artist.
Screenshots from the film "Alexander McQueen: A Floating Life as a Show"
Regarding the industry's attention, McQueen thinks it should be, and he has absolute confidence in his design.
Madonna once bought an 18-inch jacket that he designed. McQueen was not excited but smiled and said: " She may have to squeeze herself to squeeze in ."
Madonna
Lady GaGa wears armadillo shoes designed by McQueen
Only 21 pairs in the world
Soon, newspapers and public opinion followed McQueen's evaluation, praised him for boldness, and of course criticized him for being too vulgar.
McQueen never shy away from talking about "sex" in public, nor does he shy away from expressing "sex" in his works.
But with the exception of his mother, in the eyes of his mother, McQueen is a very loving boy, loves small animals, loves the family, his mother does not approve of those comments in the newspaper.
McQueen also said to his friends, " In front of my mother, don't speak bad words. "
McQueen and his mother
His mother is everything to him, a god.
The two most important women in his life, except Bole Isabella Brow, are his mother.
McQueen’s personality does not need to be repeated. People feel his passion for fashion in one of his works.
After the fashion show, the curtain call of McQueen
"Flock of Birds" in 1995
The Birds (Spring and Summer Series)
McQueen is particularly good at finding inspirations for costume designs from animal forms. The theme "birds" of the 1995 spring and summer series was inspired by birds.
In addition to finding inspiration in animals, McQueen is also a full-fledged movie fan. In his fashion show, "deduction" is the focus, and clothing is an auxiliary to interpretation .
McQueen Flock of Birds Series Pictures
The name "Flock of Birds" is derived from Hitchcock's film "Flock of Birds" of the same name.
Hitchcock's "Flock of Birds" stills
The printed pattern was designed by Simon Angles, who studied many artists' illustrations of birds (transformed them into geometric patterns), and chose one of them to play.
In this show, you will see many men dressed up as women, such as wearing hip skirts and so on. These somewhat dramatic "deductions" once again enlivened the atmosphere of the scene.
The creation of a breakthrough in gender has made McQueen's personal label once again launched, and many shadows of postmodernism can be seen in his works.
1999 "No. 13" No.13
This fashion show was the only show that made McQueen cry. The Guardian praised the show as a "fashion miracle full of imagination."
In the last link of this fashion show, a model wearing a white tutu, standing on a round turntable, next to two dancing robots, McQueen personally directs them.
This idea originally came from the work of artist Rebecca Horn
"Painting Machine"
With the rotation of the round turntable, the machine will spray two colors of black and yellow paint. These paints are randomly sprinkled on the rotating white tutu, showing special patterns.
The emotional performance of the model touched every audience present, and even hit McQueen's heart.
With all expectations "burying" in the end of the rotation, people can naturally see McQueen's unrestrained expression.
2001 Voss (Spring Summer Series)
This show is the culmination of McQueen's design career. All the models completed the T stage performance in a special glass installation.
McQueen arranged the highlight of the show at the end. When the models were gone, a plump nude girl appeared in the center of the five stations, with a ventilator, and many moths hovering around her body.
This kind of inspiration comes from the photographic work "Sanatorium", which means McQueen's view of life.
"nursing home"
It is McQueen’s good friend Michelle Olley who plays this woman.
McQueen embodies his rebellion, silence, and depravity in his works. This bad guy in the fashion industry never hides his emotions, especially in design.
In addition to the above 4 classic fashion shows, McQueen also has many outstanding works:
Joan Joan of Arc series
2001 Voss Series
Dante series works
Although McQueen's work is particularly romantic, it is a utopian expression of his view of the world, but it does not affect McQueen's desire for money.
"Pragmatism" is another characteristic of him . McQueen knows very well that if you want to support your dreams, you must make enough money.
Therefore, after he established and launched his personal brand Alexander McQueen, McQueen received an invitation from "Givenchy" and went to Paris to become the creative director of Givenchy. Although his ideas did not fit Givenchy, McQueen was willing to compromise for money.
McQueen in casual clothes heads to Paris
Incompatible with business people in suits and leather shoes
McQueen who came to Paris was perceived by the fashion atmosphere here. Compared with those colleagues who wore haute couture dresses, McQueen seemed a little out of place.
He is still the one wearing loose jeans, a simple checked shirt or a white T-shirt. He is a little bloated, and he will mingle with tailors and go to the basement restaurant where everyone often eats.
Before this, designers have always been treated as "gods", and never have such close contact with other staff.
McQueen disagrees. He doesn't think designers need to be aloof and get along with everyone to make good works.
Zhang Chi's moderate handling style has won him praise from the Parisians. He understands that even though he can't get along with these haute couture dresses, his "pragmatic" belief tells himself that "making money is the last word."
McQueen methodically arranged the "Givenchy" show every season, and invested the money he earned in his own brand Alexander McQueen. Only in his own brand show can he see the soulful McQueen.
However, the bright side will also bring the corresponding dark side. McQueen, who is becoming more and more successful, has endless shows every year, and his high-intensity work makes him a little overwhelmed.
He began to become a little negative, constantly changing boyfriends and doing liposuction. The cute fat guy turned into a decent "sportsman" overnight, drinking and taking drugs...
These changes of him were seen in the eyes of the people around him.
The little partners in the studio began to leave, which made McQueen, who is a passionate and team- oriented, uncomprehending. He dissolves these negative energies into endless work, and flies back to London from Paris to New York all the year round.
He left McQueen's studio
Emotional fluctuations did not affect McQueen's design at all. No matter how bad the mood is, he can still complete the design consistently with high quality.
Until Isabella Blow left, McQueen’s life entered the darkest moment-
"You are the brightest light in my life"
Isabella Brow, who had cancer, had already planned his departure. He invited McQueen to his residence and carefully prepared a dinner. He wanted to have the "Last Supper" with McQueen.
It's a pity that McQueen was very tired and didn't guess Bro's mind. After arriving at the residence, he greeted him in a hurry and went to sleep in his room.
This was the last time the two met.
When McQueen, who had devoted herself to work, received news about Burrow again, it was the news of her death.
At that moment, McQueen's world collapsed. He was dressed in an English short skirt and attended Bro's wedding with a solemn expression.
In the documentary "Alexander McQueen: A Floating Life as a Show", McQueen's good friend described him at the funeral: " I have never seen McQueen so sad. "
McQueen and his Bole are separated by yin and yang, and the taste of it is too difficult to express in words.
In the movie "The Devil Wearing Prada", the devil said to her assistant: " When your personal life begins to be condensed until it disappears, you succeed. "
This is the case for McQueen. Although he succeeded, it means less and less personal life and seldom smiles.
The picture at the moment is still.
Bro is all his design career.
Skinny McQueen
The original McQueen
McQueen hadn't recovered from the reality of Blow's departure, a bigger blow appeared, and his mother had passed away.
McQueen and mother
This news was the last straw that crushed McQueen. He almost collapsed emotionally. A few hours before his mother's funeral, he hanged himself.
A friend of McQueen said: "It is impossible to imagine McQueen's struggle in the last period of his life alone, nor can he imagine how he left alone. "
McQueen's body was carried out from home
This news shocked the fashion industry and hit everyone who liked him.
For many people who like fashion, McQueen is the light in their hearts.
His unique design with a sense of scars reflects the dreams of many people. If leaving is the best sublimation, his fall is another kind of rebirth.
Because McQueen himself said: " It is important to look at death because it is part of life. It is a sad thing, both melancholy and romantic. This is the end of a cycle, and everything must end. Life The cycle is positive because it provides space for new things. "
*Some pictures in this article are from documentary screenshots and the Internet
Reference book "Alexander McQueen"
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