Alexander McQueen (Pisces, 1969-2010)

Priscilla 2022-09-26 08:38:54

In 2016, the fashion circle has already rumored that Alexander McQueen's personal documentary has begun to be filmed. This is also a new project that people are looking forward to after the success of Amy Winehouse's documentary "Amy". It was widely reported that the film will revolve around the friendship between Alexander McQueen and Isabella Blow, and there was a heated discussion about who can play Alexander McQueen.

These two fashion legends both bid farewell by suicide.

After McQueen's death, the tabloids digging for scraps, many of them McQueen was confused by money and rebelled to unearth the spicy secret history of his mentor Blow. With the release of the trailer, the answer is officially revealed: This will be a documentary filmed by Alexander McQueen himself. The script was written by Peter Ettedgui. His father was the founder of Joseph and had a good relationship with McQueen.

McQueen himself is the only protagonist.

***

At the age of 3, a little boy named Lee McQueen at the time had the dream of becoming a fashion designer. Lee had an unhappy childhood. He grew up in East London and was called McQueer in school. His father, a taxi driver, hoped that he would grow up to become an electrician.

In 1986, 17-year-old McQueen heard in the TV news that Savile Row, the origin of British menswear customization, was short of apprentices, so he went to the 80-year-old Anderson & Sheppard store to apply. Anderson & Sheppard's clients include members of the royal family. After becoming an apprentice, sewing labels for clothes became his job.

He had secretly sewed a small note with swear words into a jacket for Prince Charles.

McQueen's rebellion in the fashion industry has been there ever since.

Editor and fashion collector Isabella Blow once cultivated Manolo Blahnik, John Galliano, Julien Macdonald and Jeremy Scott. In addition, Alexander McQueen is also her excavation.

Before being appreciated by Blow, McQueen was just an ordinary student of Central Saint Martins. When he was most frustrated, because there was no room to store works at home, a set of clothes was put into the trash can of King's Cross after being exhibited. inside.

McQueen graduated from Saint Martin in 1992. His graduation work was inspired by the dark legends of the Victorian era: people are keen to buy their hair from prostitutes and roll it up to give to their lovers. So McQueen also sewed his hair into the blood-red lining. When Blow saw McQueen's work in the graduate work exhibition, her whole body burned. She went crazy and called the school and then went to McQueen's home to offer to buy his full set of designs. The McQueen Lion opened his mouth: 5000 pounds, a lot of points.

Later, McQueen frankly said that at the time, he didn't expect anyone to ask for the skirts he designed. He happened to be in urgent need of cash, but he didn't expect that some people would ask for them.

In fact, Blow's life has been ups and downs. Although she was born into a famous family and married a noble husband at the time, 5,000 pounds is still a large amount. She has to negotiate with McQueen whether she can pay 100 pounds a week in installments.

Alexander McQueen graduation project

The photographer and teacher of Central Saint Martins Gary Wallis wrote a report that once he accompanied McQueen to the Blow couple’s manor for a weekend. Gary Wallis wrote: "Isabella is very excited to see anyone introduce McQueen to others. Whether it is at the gas station or in the bakery, she keeps boasting. And the bakery brother clearly only cares about'this lady, you Do you want white bread or brown bread?'."

McQueen became Blow's godson and renamed him Alexander. When he was too poor to open a studio, Blow lent him his London apartment to work and direct McQueen's creation.

Blow’s apartment in West London. She usually lives with her husband in a large house in the country.

A few years after graduation, McQueen was promoted to the creative director of Givenchy and went to Paris.

Being the creative director of Givenchy was initially unsuccessful. He also offended many colleagues in Paris with his quick talk. Galeries Lafayette even bluntly said that he is "closer to Damien Hirst than Givenchy", which runs counter to the French haute couture.

These controversies continued until the release of the spring and summer collection in 1999: at the end of the fashion show, a model wearing a cake skirt stood in the middle of the stage and was spray-painted by two robots, instantly creating a skirt unique in the world!

This is one of the most glorious moments of McQueen's career. His nearly artistic creation and integration of technology have made him attracted worldwide attention overnight.

Later stories are well known. McQueen, who returned to London to start his own business, started his personal brand creation and achieved great success.

Working Process: Photographs by Nick Waplington

McQueen stood outside the wall of the Blow Country Manor. The interior and exterior of this manor influenced their creative inspiration.

It was the peak of McQueen’s creation in 2000. He designed a skirt made of 2000 pieces of quartz for Bjork with an ostrich fur skirt; in 2001, when Bjork wore this skirt barefoot at the Royal Music Theatre and sang and danced. , Coupled with the sound of the live band and the collision of quartz pieces, the skirt has become a percussion instrument in this concert!

American ghost photographer David LaChapelle X (McQueen + Blow)

In 2003, McQueen was honored by the Queen. He also won the "World's Best Designer" award at the British Fashion Awards in the same year.

McQueen is a Scot, so he wears Scottish clothing to give honors.

In 2006, Blow was diagnosed with cancer. In the following 14 months, she fell into an overwhelming depression and had seven suicide attempts. For the eighth time, she put on a silver antique dress from the 1930s and took poison.

Blow successfully killed himself.

Blow was wearing McQueen and lying in the coffin. Before closing, McQueen took a section of Blow's hair and put it in the ring.

McQueen attending the funeral

Rupert Everett, a British writer, actor, and former friend of Blow, spoke at her funeral: You were a one-off, a genius friend, your own creation in a world of copycats.

After Blow committed suicide, the next season's McQueen conference invitation letter is based on Blow. Blow, who became the incarnation of Budika (the queen and queen of the ancient Assini tribe in England), drives a winged carriage.

This season's works are all inspired by Blow, and each headdress comes from her other lover Philip Treacy.

In 2010, in order to repay the debt, the sisters of the Blow family sent Blow's relic to the auction house. More than 200 relics include 90 McQueen works. Christie's advertised the auction and used a sonnet by Oscar Wilde as the title: Feelings of Keats Love Letters being auctioned. (On the Sale by Auction of Keats' Love Letters)

A love letter written by the British poet Keats to his neighbor Fanny Brown was auctioned at the Bonham's auction house in London, even though many people opposed the act of making private letters public and treated as commodities. In 1886, Oscar Wilde wrote a sonnet depicting the taint of art by auctions, comparing the auctioneers to those Roman soldiers who rolled dice to determine who would get the clothes of Christ on the Cross.

This incident was quickly learned by Daphne Guinness. Daphne Guinness and Blow of the famous Guinness family in Ireland have known each other as early as the 1980s. Their common hobbies for fashion and art have made their friendship deep. After Daphne got the auction, he went from New York to Christie's in London. Seeing several boxes of Blow's clothes in his lifetime, Daphne waved his hand with sorrow, "I want it all."

Daphne's favorite in the collection is this one, which comes from McQueen's Dante series in 1996.

In 2011, Lady Gaga said in an interview with Vogue: Ifelt embraced by this London cultural movement, the McQueen, Isabella Blow, Daphne Guinness wing of the English crowd.

In February 2012, McQueen hanged himself in London.

The funeral was held at St. Paul’s Cathedral in East London, which coincided with London Fashion Week.

Kate Moss, Sarah Jessica Parker, Naomi Campbell and Stella McCartney

Anna Wintour

Daphne Guinness

McQueen's tombstone is placed on the Isle of Skye in Scotland, almost on the northwestern edge of the UK.

The island is almost an uninhabited land.

Students who studied in the UK many years ago, because they liked McQueen, would go to the island to see where he was buried.

In 2013, McQueen's personal brand really collaborated with Damien Hirst mentioned by Galeries Lafayette. Combining the two iconic skulls and butterflies, a limited edition silk scarf is launched.

Before his death, McQueen's personal life has been far away from the public. Sex, drugs, depression... and there are reports that he actually knew he was HIV positive before he died.

In 2015, McQueen's sister disclosed for the first time that her younger brother, who was 15 years younger than her, had been sexually assaulted by her first husband. McQueen was only 9 years old at the time, and she only knew about it decades later. For this she has been living in self-blame.

My sister was also subjected to domestic violence in the first marriage, and she suddenly understood why McQueen's design was full of black and dramatic tension, and he always clamored to create "men who are afraid of women wearing McQueen".

It is not yet certain whether these will appear in the documentary, but Baozai's sister couldn't cry after watching the movie in advance.

McQueen and sister Janet

This documentary has been screened in two film festivals in Canada and New York, and it is currently rated astonishingly on IMDB.

It has been six years since McQueen passed away, and it has been more than ten years since Blow committed suicide. The friends and relatives they had worked with before they were alive are continuing to write the legend they left behind.

***

Daphne Guinness

From 2008 to 2012, the global economy was not good, and it was artists and art exhibitions that all big companies stopped sponsoring first. Daphne, who has collected a lot of clothes, hats and shoes, wants to set up a charity fund to sponsor art. At this time, McQueen's old works are very valuable in the market, so how to sell these two hundred skirts one by one? She pondered.

At this time, New York paid tribute to McQueen's "Savage Beauty" exhibition and asked her to borrow clothes-Daphne had an idea: let these clothes be displayed! The Isabella Blow Foundation was born.

Isabella Blow's Work of Art in Toronto, 2014

After New York, these McQueen skirts went to Toronto, London and Sydney successively. This foundation is dedicated to sponsoring students studying art at Central Saint Martins in London, including fashion, photography and design.

Sarah Burton

The successor of the Alexander McQueen brand is Sarah Burton, who is as low-key as Phoebe Philo. She started as McQueen's assistant. She was appointed creative director after McQueen passed away, but she rarely shows up and never participates in industry events. The curator of Savage Beauty once invited Sarah Burton to join, and her work was displayed together with McQueen's. Sarah politely declined.

Year after year, with the exception of the 2013 Beekeeper series, Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen has not been a surprise for a long time. But Sarah Burton has two customers worth noting every year.

First of all, her customized works are still loved by the royal family, especially Princess Kate. Princess Kate's wedding dress is her work. Princess Kate participates in major events every year, including Prince Harry's wedding this year. Sarah Burton is chosen for both sets in the morning and evening.

The daughter of the devil Anna Wintour, Bee Shaffer, didn't want to enter the fashion circle, but every time she showed up she chose Sarah Burton and the effect was surprisingly good.

Kate Moss

The friendship between the two has been established since the 90s. Kate no longer remembers when she first walked for McQueen, but her first impression of McQueen was a release in New York. The crowd was raging, and she shouted at McQueen: " Go ahead and invite Anna Wintour in first!"

In 2006, Kate Moss was banned for drug use. McQueen always wore a "We love you, Kate" T-shirt on the runway.

Because she was forbidden to walk on the sky bridge, McQueen recorded a video for her and played it on the show. In the video, Kate Moss has no sound, dances like a ghost for three minutes, and then gradually disappears into the shady scene, becoming the most romantic scene in their careers.

The last time I saw McQueen was Christmas in 2009. Kate still remembered that McQueen gave her a lot of gifts, "including a black dress and a piece of fur. I opened the closet and saw them before going to his funeral. In the dark, this is his arrangement."

One year after McQueen's death, Kate Moss decided to wear his old work to remember him, "I miss McQueen every day."

The number of times Kate Moss has appeared on the cover of "Vogue" is unmatched. After becoming a female boss on her own, Kate Moss' latest position is: Guest Editor of "Vogue UK".

Detmar Blow

Wang Shuo said, "Being decent is not making a fuss." This decent and appropriate portrayal of the Blow family. In the face of the tabloid's wife and McQueen, especially the part where the two fell out, Detmar Blow clarified in both the interview and the book: McQueen is like their relatives.

He didn't say much about the rest.

Detmar Blow has been away from the glitz of London for many years. This ancestor uploaded the big house, which has gone through sorrows and joys, and is now officially leased as Venue. It is a popular wedding venue, TV and magazine location in the Cotswolds.

Including Gucci's 2017 men's campaign.

In September 2018, Detmar will marry director Martha Fiennes.

Philip Treacy

Piers Atkinson, Stephen Jones and Philip Treacy are the three most famous hat designers in London.

Because of Blow's bridge, McQueen and Philip Treacy have a lot of intersection, both work and private, and even the curtain call of the fashion conference is to walk on the runway together.

If you compare the number of guests, Philip Treacy is far ahead of the other two designers. He almost arranged the hats of all the female guests at the past two royal weddings, not to mention the annual MET Ball and the premiere red carpet of large and small movies.

***

Because of the "first-generation Internet celebrity" poison, McQueen did not gain popularity in China until 2006. International students studying design in London also want to go to his studio for an internship. McQueen also likes Chinese interns: hardworking, talented, and irrespective of salary.

In London, it is normal for students who do internships for designers to be unpaid, not to mention those designers with lesser fame, who are not stingy, but really can't afford it. After McQueen's death, the studio was even criticized by the reporter, accusing them of not paying interns. McQueen himself was working with his life. The most shocking story I have ever heard is that an intern used an instrument to iron a detail in his studio, and the burning decoration almost flew into his eyes.

After watching Savage Beauty at the Victoria & Albert Museum in the summer of 2015, I couldn't write any comments. The fashion that was soaked in the blood of the hands of interns shocked me.

That kind of shock has been no longer visible for many years.

The movie may also discuss the reasons for McQueen's suicide. Mental illness has become one of the killers of modern people.

This summer, McQueen has an appointment with you.

(Finish)

View more about McQueen reviews

Extended Reading

McQueen quotes

  • Sebastian Pons: [about Lee Alexander McQueen] One thing he used to say - paranoia will destroy ya.

  • Alexander McQueen: You're going through your life trying to understand... why were you doing things you were doing, why were you making mistakes you were making.

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