Can't bear to press the pause button, the little desire for voyeurism sinks with the sensory experience, no need to struggle with deep meaning in thinking, indulge in this extravagant party of alcohol, D products, and X love.
New York in the 1970s and 1980s was an era of retro and pioneering and always undergoing changes. Here gathers a group of fashion celebrities who love art, alcohol, D products, X love, and parties. "Houston" is a single entry, for curious people, showing the extremely extravagant, flashy, and indulgent life at that time.
The show is produced by Ryan Murphy of "Position" and "Legacy Enemy". Although the European and American film and television industries have been keen to explore the strange stories of the fashion industry in recent years, "Houston" has also followed Murphy's usual exaggeration, drunk fans, The retro and gorgeous style shows a bit of bloody plot and the expected destruction of the protagonist, but when watching, I still can't bear to press the pause button. The little desire for voyeurism and sensory experience sink together, and there is no need to struggle with deep meaning in thinking. .
Halston is played by 50-year-old Ivan McGregor . Ivan fully interprets Houston’s enchantment and paranoia, applying a fashionable bronze foundation, a pair of black sunglasses on the bridge of his nose, and a tight-fitting black high collar. A sweater with a cigarette between his fingers, shuttled between the most fashionable scenes in New York and Paris. Ivan McGregor's possessive acting skills accurately show Halston's emotional gap. Other supporting actors are acting online, especially the image of Liza Minnelli in the play, which is also highly restored.
This is a biopic about Halston. There are no clichés about creative inspiration throughout the article, and the relationship between the characters is not muddled. It depicts his private life heavily, and does not miss any tabloid and gossip enthusiasts. Stories about business failures, emotional breakdowns, life troubles, and even "death" of design geniuses are happening all the time.
After watching the episode, I also sorted out the life of the character Halston.
Houston's full name is Roy Halston Frowick (Roy Halston Frowick), he is synonymous with fashion and disco parties in the 1970s, and is the first American fashion designer with a world-renowned reputation. The earliest fame was due to the design of Jacqueline Kennedy's (Jacqueline Kennedy) flat-top cylindrical millinery. His hat accompanied Jacqueline to attend her husband’s presidential inauguration, and it also went through 1963. Kennedy was assassinated in Dallas.
In 1932, Houston Jr. was born in Des Moines, Iowa, and grew up in Evansville, Indiana. In 1952, Halston, who had graduated from Indiana University, arrived in Chicago as a hitman, and attended classes at the Art Institute of Chicago in the evening. A year later, he opened his own millinery shop in the high-end hair salon of the stylist boyfriend Andre Basler in the East Ambassador Hotel, and started a business with female celebrities.
In 1957, he went to New York to join the popular New York millinery designer Lilly Daché (Lilly Daché). Then, he got an opportunity to work in Goodman Department Store, went to Paris to watch shows, and met celebrities, including Jacqueline Kennedy, who made him famous.
In 1968, Halston decided to leave Goodman Department Store, partly because of his personal success in costume design, and perhaps because of personal reasons-in the documentary "Houston" directed by Frederic Tcheng (Frederic Tcheng) Tom Fallon, a former Halston assistant at Goodman Department Store, recalled that at a customer gathering, two married men refused to sit with them because they were gay. Halston said to Fallon: "As long as you understand, you and I are at best a well-trained gay poodle, jumping through circles and going through trials and tests to please these rich people."
In that era of no equal rights, he used large-size female models, black models and minority supermodels independently. In front of his female friends, his attitude is always gentle and kind. He is more willing to help them than others, appreciates their beauty, and understands their sensitivity better. This is the empathy of the same minority group. It is also his unique advantage as a designer compared to other male counterparts.
The girlfriends around Halston are called "Halsonettes" , such as Karen Bjornson, Connie Cook, Heidi Goldberg ); and his customers, close friends and muses, such as Elizabeth Taylor, Anjelica Huston, Margaux Hemingway, Betty Ford, Lauren Bacall, Barbara Sinatra, Bianca Jagger, and most importantly Liza Minnelli.
Halston, who left Goodman, created a personal brand, initially only planning to sell ready-to-wear, but his first customer: socialite "Swan" Babe Paley-Capote inspired her to create "Tiffany's Breakfast" started Halston's high-profile career.
Halston’s works often use the fewest seams and the fewest pieces to interpret the extremely simplified understanding of the structure. He eliminates the shoulder lines and side seams that hinder the flow of vitality one by one, only maintaining the intimate relationship between the fabric and the body, while continuing the diagonal With the help of cutting technology and spiral cutting ideas, the beauty of dresses is largely dependent on the rhythm of the body. The diagonal cut, a spiral skirt, Roman collar, halter dress, and the trend-leading "Osvey" suede made the United States say goodbye to Bohemia in the 1960s and also bid farewell to classical European fashion.
In the "Houston" play, it is described that Halston himself likes orchids very much, but it is actually because of his idol Charles James. James also made a fortune in Chicago by designing milliners, and later successfully ventured into haute couture clothing. His most famous works include the four leaves designed for Austin Hearst (the daughter-in-law of the prototype of Citizen Kane) in 1953. Grass dress skirt. James also fell in drugs and alcohol. Christian Dior called him "the greatest genius of this generation", Cristobal Balenciaga considered him "the greatest designer in the world", James’ favorite wine is Moet & Chandon, his favorite flower Orchid, he also loves paranoid perfectionism and extravagance. These have become Halston's favorites.
Halston has the common problems of all geniuses: grumpy, capricious, and emotional. He is also the epitome of America in the 1970s and 1980s. It was a magnificent, expansive, and fast-developing era. But behind the carnival, there are also shadows of depravity and decadence hidden.
In 1972, when Halston was calling for a prostitute, he met Victor Hugo, the man who was called. He became the first lover to live with Halston. On Christmas 1973, Halston fired Hugo from the window designer of his Madison Avenue store. Hugo led Halston into Studio 54 and began a sensual life.
In 1973, Halston sold his name and sold the brand to Norton Simon for $16 million, which was doomed to his failure. The transaction allowed Norton Simon to use Houston’s name for products he did not design, and it was forbidden to use his name on any product unless Norton Simon agreed. Soon after being acquired, Houston was invited to participate in the "Battle of Versailles" organized by Lambert-he and Anne Klein, Stephen Barros, Bill Blass, Oscar De La Renta, etc. 5 American designers played against 5 French designers Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, Emmanuel Ungaro, and the creative director of Dior at the Palace of Versailles Mark Bowen.
This paragraph is also one of the climaxes in the "Houston" play, which perfectly shows the gorgeous, retro, and decadent aesthetics that runs through the entire play of "Houston". In the face of unprecedented high pressure, Halston created an amazing phantom of neon clothes.
In 1974, after having won four Coty Awards, he was elected to the Coty Hall of Fame, the highest honor in American fashion at the time.
But in the following years, because of market demand and company decisions, he could not balance business and fashion, high-end and the public, and Studio 54's life made him addicted to drugs, and his emotions became more and more out of control. Many friends left him.
In 1983, Wall Street’s mergers and acquisitions were rampant. Norton Simon was acquired by Playtex’s parent company Esmark. David J. McHoney (David J. Mahoney) was forced to step down. Halston's long-term perversion, luxury, and drug addiction caused him to be kicked out of his company by his new owner in 1984. He tried to redeem the brand, but ultimately failed, and the company was acquired by Revlon after changing hands five times.
In 1988, the same year he was diagnosed with AIDS, Revlon completely terminated his employment contract. The dresses he designed as an archive were sold at clearance sale, and his fashion show and party video tapes were deleted and sold as blank tapes.
Once at the Goodman department store, his name represents high-class and beauty; at the legendary club Studio 54, his name is the carnival and depravity of the disco era; at the Olympic Building on Fifth Avenue, his name is the tide of financial mergers and acquisitions in the 1980s In the booty.
Halston exchanged his name and talent for a golden cage. When his name became his biggest capital, he gradually reduced to the price of capital. As the first star fashion designer in American history, he lost Own name.
Everything is almost over. The last time of his life was spent in a hospital in San Francisco, and the ward was full of orchids. He refused to be visited by friends, but his family in California often visited him, including his brother Robert, who resigned from the State Department and moved to California for him. On March 26, 1990, Houston died at the age of 57. He left millions of dollars to Hugo. Three years later, Hugo also died of AIDS.
"The first person to give silver jewellery the status of luxury goods" —— Tiffany's legendary female jewelry designer Elsa Peretti
Elsa Peretti (Elsa Peretti) is played by Rebecca Dayan. She is a model and muse of Halston and later became a well-known jewelry designer.
Peretti was born in Florence, Italy in 1940, the youngest daughter in the family. Father Ferdinando Peretti is the founder of Anonima Petroli Italiana (API), a large Italian oil company (the company was founded in 1933), and is one of the most successful Italian businessmen after the war.
From childhood, Peretti has a keen interest in being a model and design. He was educated in Switzerland and Rome, and graduated from Volepicelli in Rome. Although born in one of the wealthiest families in Italy, Peretti, who loves adventure by nature, has a rebellious personality. At the age of 20, she left what she considered to be an extremely conservative family and cut off her financial resources. Peretti worked as an Italian teacher and as a ski instructor in the German-speaking mountain village of Gstaad in Switzerland. In 1963, she later returned to Rome to study an interior design degree, and after graduation she worked for Milan designer Dado Torrigiani. In 1964, Peretti started working as a professional model in Barcelona. He once worked as a model for Spanish artist Salvador Dali.
In 1968, Peretti met the supermodel Wilhelmina Cooper and moved to New York. She is 1.75 meters tall, looks bright, and has a tall and elegant appearance that makes her deeply loved by designers. In the early 1970s, Peretti, Karen Bjornson, Anjelica Huston and others became the favorite model group of famous designers Halston, nicknamed Halstonettes, and their careers reached a new level.
Halston commented on Peretti: "She is different from other models. Others are like hangers-put on their makeup and hairstyles, and after a while they wear blue jeans back." "But Elsa has her style: She will dress the clothes to be shown into her own clothes."
In this way, Peretti became close friends with designer Halston, calling him a "life partner", and followed him among the coolest and most avant-garde artists in New York at the time.
In 1969, at a big show at Giorgio di Sant'Angelo, Peretti designed the first accessory-a sterling silver bud vase tied to a leather cord, which became the highlight of the audience. In the same year, Peretti began designing jewelry and perfume bottles for the Halston brand, and opened a jewelry boutique in Bloomingdale's department store.
At that time, in order to persuade the Broadway actress Liza Minnelli to try Peretti's silver jewelry, Halston once said, "The gems must be kept waiting for the man to give you; when you can't afford gold jewelry, silver jewelry is the best choice." Since then, Liza Minnelli became Peretti's most famous die-hard fan.
In 1974, Peretti began to collaborate with Tiffany as an independent designer under the recommendation of Halston.
In 1979, he became the chief designer of Tiffany.
In the 50 years of cooperation with Tiffany, she has designed more than 30 jewelry collections with modern styles. Open Heart series, Bean series, Bottle series, Bone Cuff bracelets, all of which are hot-selling classics so far.
In 2012, 72-year-old Peretti and Tiffany renewed their contract for another 20 years.
On March 18, 2021, Elsa Peretti died peacefully in her sleep at her home on the outskirts of Barcelona, Spain, at the age of 80.
"I think design is the most interesting: creating new tailoring methods and expressing new fashion ideas. This process is not like people think, when the light bulb suddenly flashes, you have an idea. You need to keep digging, Keep thinking until the inspiration is born, as dancer Martha Graham said, it’s like childbirth."-Halston
"People are forgotten so fast. I want to survive. (People are always forgotten so fast, and I want to'live' in people's memory)"-Elsa Peretti
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