I like the term " sense of age " a little bit lately . A well-produced drama series, or a piece of exciting music, can create a grand and real experience in a very short time , making people feel like they are in a certain era, between entering and exiting the play, meeting There is a wonderful feeling of time and space.
For example, the movie version of The Dream of the Red Chamber "Downton Abbey" was finally released .
The phenomenon-level British period drama that started in 2010 has six seasons and 52 episodes in 2015. Emmys, Golden Globes and various awards around the world have been softened. The movie version can be regarded as a feast for all Downton fans, and it puts a perfect end to this 10-year old British dream.
However, this movie may be more fan-oriented, with a brief introduction to the relationship between the characters and the historical background. In addition, during this period, it happened to be a transitional period from classical aesthetics to modern aesthetics. There are a large number of extremely exquisite costumes and jewels worthy of detailed analysis. So this article will be divided into several parts, even if you haven't watched the TV series version, you can quickly get the beauty of Tangjiatun:
01 Characters of Downton: The life picture of nobles and servants
02 Historical background: From Titanic to George V
03 Fashion Trend: Girls and Boys/Flapper/Antique Skirts
04 Jewelry Art: Long Necklace/ArtDeco/Royal Jewelry
01 Characters of Downton: The Life Picture Scroll of Nobles and Servants
Why is it said that "Downton Abbey" is a dream of the British Red Mansions. The main reason is that it is also based on an old-style aristocratic family with portraits of masters and servants. The time span is about 20 years and can be passed through this family. The story of I feel the details of that era and the changes in the world-is it a very popular setting?
Violet, the old countess of Grantham : the backbone of the family, the treasure of the town house, full of poisonous tongue skills. Very traditional characters from the old age can gradually accept new things and opinions, but they will never admit it verbally.
The Earl of Grantham Robert & the Countess of Grantham Cora : The daughter of the last noble gentleman and American millionaire, although they are combined because of each other's knighthood and dowry, they have become a lifelong true love pair. The role of Earl Grantham has always shown a lot of personality shining points, such as the idea of tolerating every family member and respecting the servant's work, which is also shown in the movie version.
Miss Mary : The current head of the manor, I am responsible for the beauty of the drama and film version in my heart. Watching her from the arrogant young lady, to the parting with her eldest cousin, to stepping out of sorrow and starting her life again, and truly taking on Downton's future in the movie version, it is really infinite.
Second Miss Edith : Girls’ Generation has experienced jealousy and confusion, and gradually found the direction in life that she wanted in the later stages of the drama. The movie version doesn't have too many scenes, it just shows a little progress in a happy life.
The third son-in-law Tom : When the drama first appeared, he was a radical Irish youth, a driver of Downton Abbey, but had a love relationship with the third lady Sybil, who was an independent advocate of feminism, and both left home. Unfortunately, Sybil passed away during childbirth. Tom returned to Downton with his daughter and gradually tried to understand and integrate into the family.
Isobel Crawley : The mother of elder cousin Matthew, a middle-class female representative with a higher education and a broad vision. She tried her best to help soldiers and civilians in wartime. She and the old lady Violet often fought each other due to conceptual conflicts, but also because of this. Become friends.
The old housekeeper Carson : Another treasure of the town house, he manages all the manservants in the manor. He is always strict and fair, very loyal to Downton Abbey, and very gentle to Miss Mary who grew up when he was a child. Originally, the drama version has retired, and when the movie version is in need at Downton, Mary still asks Carson for help as soon as possible.
Housekeeper Hughes : Manage all the maids of the manor, Carson's wife. Honest and serious, indifferent on the outside, can accept new things in the heart, respect and love Carson very much.
Earl's Attendant Bates : Once an orderly soldier during the Earl Robert's war, he was injured to protect the Earl and was invited to work in Downton Abbey after he retired. Kind, low-key, but also very self-assertive.
Maid Anna : The personal maid of the three young ladies, the wife of Bates. Beautiful, witty, upright and courageous, able to solve problems for Downton in his own way.
The new housekeeper Thomas : The villain image in the early stage of the drama version, the male servant with the eyes above the top, for the sake of the future, he will not scrutinize the means, and gradually reflect more aspects of the role in the later stage, which makes people love and hate. The movie version finally met his own homosexual.
Chef Patmore & Kitchen Maid Daisy : Although the kitchen team is at the bottom of the class, they have always been very proud of their craftsmanship. Daisy is a small character, but you can also see obvious growth clues from the drama version to the movie version.
02 Historical background: From Titanic to George V
The main line of the movie version is the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to Downton Abbey in 1927. Although the plot is fictitious, this style can be said to be very realistic.
You can probably refer to the setting of Qianlong’s six trips to the south of the Yangtze River where “their family will pick you up four times”. Even the plot of Mary worrying about building a viewing platform and preparing chairs in the parade style is somewhat similar to the construction of the Daguanyuan Provincial Family Courtyard.
Queen Mary is actually a famous jewelry madman, who has contributed many treasures to the royal jewelry box, which will be discussed in detail later. In addition, the marriage of Princess Mary to the older Earl of Harwood basically respects historical facts.
In fact, modern British monarchs are relatively easy to remember. Between the two super-long standby queens, there are four male monarchs. I have sorted out the chronological order: 1837-1901 Queen Victoria 1901-1910 Edward VII (son of Queen Victoria) 1910 -1936 Qiao Zhi V ( Edward VII's son, who is visiting Downton, but also the beginning of Windsor, the British Empire, the largest territory of witness) 1936-1936 Edward VIII (the eldest son of George V, is not love Jiangshan who loves beauty) 1936-1952 George VI (second son of George V, the prototype of the king’s speech) 1952-present Elizabeth II (daughter of George VI)
Limited inheritance: The story of the Downton Abbey drama version is told from the sinking of the Titanic in 1912. An important background in the early stage is the limited inheritance regulations. The original heir of Downton Abbey was killed in a shipwreck, and the Earl’s three daughters could not directly inherit the estate. Therefore, the Earl’s distant cousin, eldest cousin Matthew, was found to be the male heir and married the eldest lady Mary, and then led out. A series of contradictions between the two concepts. The conflict of ideas between the emerging bourgeoisie and the old-style aristocracy has almost run through the six seasons. In the movie version, there is also the issue of the illegitimate daughter inheritance of the earl's in-laws. Maybe the industry will return to the family through the marriage with Tom?
The decline of the nobility: This period also happened to be a period when the privileges of the British nobility were greatly weakened. The British Parliament consists of the House of Lords and the House of Commons. The House of Lords is a noble member and the House of Commons is an elected member. The bill passed in 1911 deprived the upper house of the right to veto the bills of the lower house. It established the principle of the supremacy of the lower house and greatly restricted it. The rights of the nobility. There is also a bill with high inheritance taxes, which also makes it more and more difficult for the nobles to inherit the family business. This is also the background of the times when Earl Robert and Miss Mary have been worried about Downton.
The Irish problem: Ireland was not originally a British land. England began to invade continuously in the 12th century. It was not until 1801 that Ireland was officially incorporated into the United Kingdom. However, in the Great Famine of 1845, the British government did not provide much assistance, which caused a quarter of the Irish population to be lost. In the Easter Uprising of 1919, the British armed forces suppressed the conflict even more. In 1921, Britain allowed 26 counties in the south of Ireland to form a free state, while the six counties in the north were still part of the United Kingdom. Therefore, Tom, with an Irish background, felt that security personnel would find him in advance during the King and Queen’s visit.
There is also the First World War/Catholic VS Protestantism/The Rise of the Labor Party... In fact, the historical period involved in Downton Abbey happened to be a particularly turbulent period. Some of them only appeared in the drama version and will not be elaborated.
03 Fashion Trend: Girls and Boys/Flapper/Antique Skirts
Then finally came up with the topic of clothing. In the two-hour movie version, all the staff changed over 600 sets of clothes. The final dance party was even more exquisite and dazzling. It is indeed Downton. The designer of this film is Anna Robbins (Anna Robbins), who has been nominated for two Emmy Awards. At present, the film version of "Downton Abbey" has also been nominated for N different awards. So the simple storyline is really not a big problem for this film. I came to watch the costumes and jewelry.
The time point of the movie version is 1927. There are several important fashion trends in this period. One of them is the masculinization of women's clothing, centered on Paris, " girls and boys ". After the First World War, women began to move to society to take on more jobs and have more choices and freedom. Fashionable girls at the time liked short hair, masculine clothing, diet and weight loss, which was also the style that Chanel first developed.
Miss Mary certainly will not miss this trend, and this style is also in line with her capable personality.
The 1920s was an era when jazz was all the rage. It was also an era of bobo heads, free love, short skirts and cigarettes. After the end of the First World War, people were addicted to the material pleasure of life. It is particularly worth mentioning that in 1927, the length of women's skirts reached above the knee for the first time. But only a few years later, we encountered the world economic depression, and it seemed that this short and beautiful era had a sense of eschatological illusion.
The light and close-fitting Flapper skirt is also the representative style of this period, simple slim design + irregular skirt, but after all, the film is a formal occasion to meet the king and queen, and it is a traditional noble family. The second lady still chose a longer one. Skirts.
Antique skirts must say something about Miss Mary's Delphos Delphi pleated skirt . This style is an antique patent registered in 1902 and designed by Spanish fashion designer Mariano Fortuny. It looks simple on the surface, but in fact, you need to dye the silk first, and then pleated it by hand to make a skirt that fits the body perfectly. Because it is handmade and the quantity is small, it is especially sought after by the aristocracy. In the film, this one is customized by the film costume designer and Fortuny. The glass beads on the cuffs and sides of the body are not only decoration, but also can shape the skirt.
Also worth mentioning is the black and white antique dress worn by Miss Mary at the end prom. This is a 1920 style work combined with 2018 craftsmanship. The team took a lot of effort to make the beads have the effect of gently swinging when walking and dancing.
The grandmother's aura is softer than the TV series version, and Mary is more powerful and present. This is also a symbol and hint of Downton's heritage.
The countess still chose the loose low-waisted design that was popular at the time, and the dress would adopt the style of shawl, taking into account the sense of authority and gentle temperament.
The old lady continued the nostalgic style of the drama version. The intricate lace and cufflinks that were popular during the Edwardian period are still her favorites. For formal occasions, the hat must be matched with the same color, but the tone gradually becomes softer.
04 Jewelry Art: Long Necklace/ArtDeco/Royal Jewelry
In terms of jewelry accessories, the decorative effect is more valued than the material value. For example, long necklaces are very popular. The way to wear them is to go around a few times, with one circle long and lower abdomen. As for whether to use real pearls or diamonds, it doesn't matter that much. This group photo is particularly obvious. The mother and daughter are wearing long necklaces.
ArtDeco jewelry is completely different from the elegant and symmetrical classical design of the Edwardian period. It uses a large number of geometric figures, mechanical straight lines, and bright contrasting colors, which is a more modern aesthetic style.
This style of jewelry appears more in the drama version. In the movie version, in addition to the daily scenes, the highlight is the very formal dinner and dance scenes. Most aristocratic girls also wear crowns to attend, but there are relatively few pictures of ArtDeco jewelry that can be found.
Finally, I will focus on the royal jewelry that everyone loves to see , which belongs to the highlight moment of the jewelry expert Queen Mary. You may think that Queen Elizabeth's jewelry is countless. The Queen herself stated that "my jewelry is not more than half of my grandmother's." This grandmother is the Queen Mary who appeared in the movie version of "Downton Abbey".
Several pieces of Queen Mary's representative jewelry were restored in the movie, and three genuine antique crowns were borrowed. In order to restore the image of this jewelry expert, it was very hard.
The following picture needs to be focused. Understand the Queen Mary on this picture, and you can basically have a quick understanding of the royal jewelry style at that time.
The Vladimir crown was born in 1874. It was originally a gift from Grand Duke Vladimir, the son of Tsar Alexander II, to his new wife Maria. It used approximately 1,900 gems. After revolutionary turmoil, it was sold to Queen Mary for 280,000 pounds in the 1920s. The jeweler Garrard repaired and refurbished this beautiful crown and made up for the missing diamonds. A few years later, Queen Mary replaced the pearls on the crown with 15 Cambridge emeralds.
So there are three ways to wear this crown, pearl version, emerald version, and no pendant version. Queen Elizabeth is also often worn on various occasions, so you must find it a bit familiar. Of course, only imitations appear in the movie, and the ones worn by Queen Elizabeth are genuine.
This set of emeralds for replacement comes from Augusta of Hesse-Kassel, Queen Mary’s maternal grandmother, Duchess of Cambridge. She won a box of more than 30 emeralds in a charity draw. It is said that they came from the Indian royal family and Augusta herself only used them. A small part made a pair of earrings and pendant necklaces, and the rest of the emeralds were later passed on to her granddaughter Queen Mary.
In December 1911, Queen Mary was crowned as the Queen of India at the Delhi Audience Ceremony. For this ceremony, these emeralds were made into a 6-piece jewelry set, including the Delhi Audience Crown, Delhi Audience Necklace, and Cambridge Emeralds Necklace, Cambridge emerald earrings, Delhi sight brooch, Cambridge emerald triangle chest ornament. This set of jewelry is called the Delhi Audience Set .
Later, Delhi saw that the emeralds on the crown were transferred to Vladimir's crown, and Delhi saw that the necklace was given to Princess Diana as a wedding gift, and the queen was taken back to the royal family after her death. Delhi, who removed the emeralds, had seen the crown once lent to Camilla to wear it.
Here is this picture again, this time I’m going to talk about the Garter Medal on Queen Mary’s left arm .
The Garter Medal is the highest level of the British honor system, and the number is very small. It is limited to the British monarch, the Prince of Wales and a maximum of 24 living members. The 24 members who receive the Medal form the "Knights of the Guardian". Unlike other medals, only the British monarch has the right to award the Garter, and the Prime Minister has no right to make recommendations.
It is said that once the garter belt of a countess suddenly fell to the ground at a court ball, causing many court dignitaries to laugh. Edward III picked up the garter belt and tied it to his lap and announced in public "Honi soit qui mal y pense" ( "Shame on him who thinks evil of it." "Shame on him who thinks evil of it."), this sentence has since become the motto of this medal.
Men wear the Garter Medal on normal occasions on their left leg, and women wear them on their left arm.
In the formal ceremony, the wearer of the Garter Medal must wear special clothing and carry special objects. For example, the cloaks of the monarch, the prince of Wales and members of the royal family are dragged. The monarch’s cloak is sewn with the stars of the Knights. With the exception of the monarch, the left shoulder of the cloak is sewn with the coat of arms of St. George's cross surrounded by a garter belt.
He wears a hood and jacket with a crimson velvet cloak on his right shoulder. The hat is made of black velvet with white ostrich and black heron feathers. The overall effect is quite handsome.
Well, let's talk about the movie itself from the jewelry.
The story is really not complicated, and life will return to ordinary after the royal family visits. But at this point of time in 1927, it means that soon afterwards, the family of Downton Abbey will face the Great Depression and the cruel World War II, and even their children will likely be on the battlefield, and suddenly feel that the movie is ending in a happy way. At least it can give them a short good time.
Ten years have passed, or a hundred years have passed. For a family, it is just a period of time. Guarding and moving forward are the ever-changing themes.
source:
1. "Downton Abbey" movie version
2. "World Fashion History" by Wang Shouzhi
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The blogger currently lives in Manchester, UK
I usually like to shop for some antique ornaments/antique jewelry/antique watches
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