The movie Phantom Thread just won an Oscar for best costume design. This is almost the most uncontroversial award this year
High class and elegance are many people's direct impressions of fashion designers. In addition to this, you may also think of words like critical, ego , etc.
Coco Chanel, for example, described herself as " arrogant " because "if you want to be irreplaceable, you must always be different."
Yohji Yamamoto prefers black because it clearly expresses " I don't bother you, you don't bother me either ".
Yves Saint Laurent said, "Everyone needs the specter of beauty in life, and I've gone through all kinds of hells to find and chase them ."
The three-time Oscar winner Daniel Lewis, who starred in "Phantom Thread" as a women's clothing designer, had announced his retirement last year, so it was naturally special for him to decide to star.
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In the film, Lewis plays a character named Reynolds Woodcock, who runs a haute couture house that was popular in the 1950s .
Ladies and gentlemen of London are proud of customizing his clothes, and even British princesses are baptized from the beginning, and each season's wardrobe is filled with his works.
He sees design as art and has an almost paranoid zeal for his work .
In life, I always maintain a dignified image, and strive for perfection in every detail .
However, Reynolds was again a " patient ".
He despises emerging fashion, oscillating between arrogance and self-loathing while designing his ideal clothes while catering to the needs of high-class customers.
He never sympathized with women, and the companions around him came and went, and none of them left without his contemptuous swearing.
He said marriage would make him hypocritical, and deep down he believed in the "curse of the wedding dress" and believed he would die alone.
How would such a man fall in love?
When director Paul Thomas Anderson decided to make a film about a fashion designer, a gothic love story came to mind.
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"Reynolds made my dream come true, and in return I gave him what he wanted most, all I had ."
At the beginning of "Phantom Thread", Alma confessed. She is the daughter of a fisherman and works as a waitress at a resort hotel. Alma knew she was beautiful, but even in her dreams she never imagined that she would live in a London fashion house.
Her neck is too thin, her shoulders and hips are too wide, and she has no chest , and she is a little ashamed to say it. But in Reynolds' eyes, this is the most perfect body in the world.
Under Reynolds' "packaging", Alma became the muse of beauty.
On their first date in London, Reynolds made a lavender-colored Duchess Satin gown for Alma , a fabric more sculptural than regular silk, with a curved ivory pattern rolled up.
It was like a love letter that Reynolds was willing to bring her into his life if she accepted it.
In the spring and summer social fashion show, Alma appeared in a long scarlet dress with lace trim , Reynolds deliberately designed pockets for this dress .
At the time, only men had functional pockets. Queen Victoria of England added pockets to her clothes for the convenience of entertaining guests. A dress with a pocket indicates the status of the "mistress of the house" .
This lavender-coloured maxi dress is made of late 17th-century Flemish club lace and is so precious that Reynolds rescued it from Antwerp during the war.
" I've been waiting for the right moment to use it to make clothes ." Reynolds sewed Alma's name into the dress.
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In order to support the body shape, the waist will be as tight as possible after wearing the dress. For Alma, a girl from a commoner background, it was like a process of being "tamed" .
She can't wear the clothes she chooses, please stand for a long time to please her lover, and she has no right to act freely.
The relationship between the two is also like a metaphor for love: it is always sweet at first, and then it is tempted and tested. How much can you accept me until the essence of the relationship emerges ? Will you be under my control?
Until Reynolds got mad at Alma's candlelight dinner for him, saying what she feared most: " I don't need you ...it's my life, and it's up to you to spend it with me or not . ."
To get what Reynolds needs, Alma decides to poison him...
Everyone wants to be beautiful, whether men or women, to gain power, to be accepted, and to be loved.
The role of fashion is not simply to dress women better, but to give them confidence, make them feel confident and allow them to assert themselves.
In order to avoid further spoilers, I hope you can watch the movie and chat in the comments section.
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