Fashion in the early 20th century is as beautiful as oil paintings, and every frame is a fashion blockbuster

Rasheed 2022-12-12 14:34:30

I watched the popular movie "The Danish Girl" tonight. In addition to the plot and performance, the soundtrack and art direction must be well praised. The main musical instruments in the film are harp, violin and piano. The harp especially appears in the first half of the film. Einar was just immersed in the self-entertainment of the costumes, and the gorgeousness of the harp appeared just right; in the middle, the sadness of the violin took over. The protagonist; in the second half, the violin and the piano begin to sensationalize together, making the film reach its climax.

And I want to say, the costumes and art direction in the film are really beautiful! Hispanic-Canadian Paco Delgado directed costumes for the film, which was nominated for two Oscars, including The Danish Girl.

On the basis of respecting the real characters, in order to express the contrast of Lili, Lili (called Einar before transgender) who appeared at the beginning of the film appeared as a very masculine male image.
(real people vs movie actors)


At the same time, in order to show the conflict of cross-dressing in the society at that time, even passers-by men in the film are uniformly dressed in conservative gray and dark blue suits influenced by the Edwardian period at that time.

Wearing women's clothes for the first time, Lili looks like a little girl who is afraid of getting lost.

Going to meet the beloved man, who still has masculine features, wraps himself up like a zongzi.

After Einar/ Lili and his wife moved to Paris, Paris was naturally more fashionable and lively compared to northern Europe, so Einar/ Lili began to be more free and unrestrained at that time (although he was still a man at the time) .
Bow ties replaced ties.

During the cross-dressing period in Copenhagen he wore black, dark blue or olive. During Paris, even women's clothing became light and bright.

The seductive silk scarf is the most important prop in the film, and it even won the audience's tears at the end of the film. This strangulation style also worked at Burberry Prorsum's menswear show last year.
Paco emphasized: Lili wanted to use a silk scarf to cover up her Adam's apple, but on the other hand, the two of them were no longer separated from each other, and the silk scarves were shared.
In the end, the silk scarf flying away also symbolizes the liberation of the souls of the two.

Paul Poiret is Paco's reference when he was creating, the dress of the Parisian ladies around 1910.

At that time, the two couples were developing very well in Paris, and the wife's works were successful in business, and the two lived a superior material life in Paris.


It was also because in Paris that she could not hold back her desire to become a woman, she was beaten up by two straight men with cancer in a Paris park wearing such a silk suit.
This dress is Paco's most satisfying creation: "Man in a cream suit with a lavender scarf: is this a man with a women's scarf or a woman influenced by men? He's confused himself, and The audience saw the process."

Lili, who was determined to live, began to be meticulous after she made up her mind to undergo sex reassignment surgery.


When creating Lili's clothing, Paco took inspiration from Lanvin's Robe de style. Here's the secret: strangling the man's waistline and dramatic skirt—making him more feminine.


After completing the operation, Lili completely began to enjoy the process of being a woman, and she dared to look straight at the man who was once heartbroken in a roadside cafe.




And the heroine (the only female character who won this year's Oscar as a supporting actress) is even cooler. First of all, I love her nightgown when she first got married, even Nightgowns are so fashionable, they deserve to be a female artist!
This nightgown with an oriental pattern reflects the bold heart of the character. The paintbrush in the film is her cigarette, either holding it in her mouth or dragging her elbow with her fingers in the air, the cool thing is not a little bit.


When painting at home, I just wear a casual robe, but a pair of strong boots give character to the character.

During the Danish period, there were still casual clothes. In Paris, her status began to improve, and the clothes became more and more expensive. She wore a lot of fur during the Paris period.

A skirt showing exquisite craftsmanship.

And the influence of this character's creation is Coco Chanel: quite sporty skirt, loose knitted top and change of skirt cuffs. Coco Chanel liberated the woman from the corset, and the painter Gerda was also a woman leader of ideological freedom.

Two people working together.

At this time, Lili, who was wearing men's clothes, could no longer adapt to the man in Einar's body.

During the operation in Germany, the couple calmly faced the process of her husband's gender reassignment surgery, and their clothes had no boundaries at all.



He has always appeared in the play as a straight and elegant straight man.




Although the male No. 3 Ben Whishaw has a small role, he has an elegant appearance every time he appears. When they meet again on the street, he is still a handsome man, his eyes are full of poems.


In fact, the cast is here, and the movie has become so fashionable.
Eddie Redmayne is 180cm tall and has served as a Burberry graphic model and brand ambassador. More than half of the major occasions are wearing Burberry suits.

Ben Wishaw once endorsed Prada, and it is obvious to all that Prada loves British actors.

Actress Alicia Vikander is the face of Louis Vuitton.


Paco and Eddie were very worried about Eddie's waistline when creating the costumes for this show. The two looked up photos of Lili himself in the 1920s. From the photos, it can be seen that Lili already had a waistline at that time. The man breathed a sigh of relief.

In addition to referencing a large number of works by designers in 1920, only the skirt in this painting has been truly restored to a costume.


Is there a real antique dress as a prop? Paco said the fact that people in the 1920s were very skinny and the actors and actresses in this show were a lot taller than people back then, so all the costumes had to be recreated.

Hats and furs appeared equally frequently in the film, and hats were also a symbol of their social status at the time.



There is no need to worry about the 1920s. Paco Delgado believes that the clothes of that year were very fragile due to the limited craftsmanship and the backwardness of fabrics and textiles.

"I think back when Mr. Dior created New Look, women were offended for wearing it and walking down the street. People often forget that clothes are our powerful weapon: it's politics, it's social.

" "Blue Jasmine", the costume designer created for Cate Blanchett in the film, he designed a "Chanel" according to Karl Lagerfeld's style, and handed it over to the real Chanel to make it. In order to make this unparalleled "Chanel" play out the plot, I threw it in the washing machine and threw it over and over again, washed, washed, and dried 20 times, and then I got the "desperate lady" temperament that came out of the last movie.

The "self-cultivation of a costume designer" in the crew is also a good story.

(over)

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Extended Reading

The Danish Girl quotes

  • Dr. Hexler: Tell me about Lili... Where did she come from?

    Einar Wegener: Inside of me.

  • Gerda Wegener: It's hard for a man to be looked at by a woman. Women are used to it, of course, but for a man to submit to a woman's gaze - it's unsettling. Although I believe there's some pleasure to be had from it, once you yield.